|
The
variety “Ascolana” – “Oliva Tenera Ascolana” (Tender Olive
of Ascoli: translator’s note)
also called “Oliva Concia” (Dressed Olive: translator’s
note) or “Oliva di San Francesco” (Saint Franciscus’s Olive:
translator’s note) or
simply “Ascolana” - is the queen of table olives and it is also an important resource for the
agriculture of Ascoli Piceno because it is the main ingredient of a
delicious dish called “oliva farcita” (stuffed olive: translator’s
note).

Its
cultivation is spread across the province of Ascoli Piceno, in the
area stretching from the River Tronto to the the River Tenna, and in
the province of Teramo, from the River Vomano to the River Tronto (as
described in detail in the attached “Terms and Regulations for
Production”).
It
can be found on plains, low slopes and hills close to the foothills of
the Appenines, at an average maximum height of 500 metres (medium
annual rainfall of about
700mm).
Through
time, its cultivation has extended to limited areas in Tuscany, Latium
and Apulia; some plants have been sent far
away reaching Israel, Mexico, Argentina and the U.S.A.
It
is a rather hardy perennial tree: its fruit is
mainly consumed while it is still green, but it can be used to
produce a top quality very gentle fruity yellowish-green olive oil
(100 kg/12-15 kg of oil), whose degree of acidity is very low and
whose taste is sweet and pleasant.
According
to authoritative sources the “Ascolana” olive, together with other
fruits, dried figs and cooked wine from Ascoli Piceno, has been well
known and appreciated since ancient times, especially by ancient
Romans, who were said to esteem its quality and delicacy.
The
existence of table olives in the area of Ascoli Piceno is confirmed by
prehistoric relics found in
some caves of a hill called San Marco situated near the town. Latin
classic writers called this fruit “Picena”, but later on its name
changed and became “Ascolana Tenera”.
Pliny
considered olives coming from Ascoli top rate and the oil made with
them the best ever produced: during that time Ascoli supplied
the Romans with vegetables,
wine and olives. It is said that during a feast given by Trimalcione,
Nero had them as a starter and they gave him an amazing appetite.
Pliny
regarded the “Ascolana” olive as a remedy to cure renal gravel and
dental cavities; Palladio suggested different ways of dressing them
and indicated how to make a tasty olive sauce, while Marcus Varro
described a suitable techinque for its conservation.
Martial
had a weakness for those olives, too, in fact he would eat them before
and after his meals. He also described the containers used for the
conservation and the transport of the “colymbades” (this is how
big green olives floating in water were called).
Columella
in his book on agriculture “De re rustica” listed different
varieties of table olives among which the “Picena” (possibly the
olive of Ascoli Piceno, that is the “Ascolana”).
In
1583 Pope Sixtus V, together with princes and cardinals, expressed its
appreciation for the olives of Ascoli and it seems that the Pope
himself wanted them to be
sent to the Vatican.
In
1877, Coutance defined the Piceno area as “la terre promise de l’olivier”
(the promised land of the olive tree: translator’s
note) in his work “L’Olivier”.
Various
writings describe the first process of elimination of the olives
bitter taste (“deamarizzazione”) carried out by the monks of the
Benedictine Monastery of Sant’Angelo
Magno using a solution of water and ash.
Garibaldi,
Rossini, Carducci and Giacomo Puccini also expressed their
appreciation for the delicious big olives.
Agronomist
Mariano Mazzocchi was among the citizens of Ascoli
who better managed to organize the first boasting olive
industry (allowing producers to obtain a satisfactory remuneration)
and to advertise significantly the product itself. From Valle Venere,
where he lived, he did his best to promote this product in other parts
of Italy, sending out trees and other material necessary for
propagation.
At
that time, many farmers cultivated the “Ascolana” and carried out
the process of the elimination of its bitter taste for private
consumption only and various families had already created small
factories for the processing of green olives (among them we can
mention the Nardini-Saladini, Balena, Prosperi, Camilli, etc.).
|